Non-Muslims may not enter this huge mosque, in the heart of the Fes El Bali (Medina), which has been a centre of Islamic learning for more than a thousand years, but often the doors stand open and it is certainly worth taking a look inside. The mosque is surrounded by numerous madrasas (Islamic schools), many of which are open to the public. The most famous of these is the Attarin Madrasa, built in the early 14th century, which features a beautiful bronze door and elegant courtyard with some impressive marble, alabaster and cedar wood decoration.

Morocco is famous for producing high quality soft leather. It is recommended that only those with strong stomachs visit the tanner's quarter, close to the Karaouine Mosque, which despite its odorous reputation has become one of Fez' main attractions. Visitors can ascend to any one of the terraces belonging to the surrounding leather shops that look down on the fascinating tanners' yard, honeycombed with vats of dye and piled with skins (it is expected that you will at least look around the shop afterwards, and if nothing is bought a tip to the shop owner is required). The reason for the bad smell is chiefly because guano and pigeon droppings are used as part of the curing process.

There are several gates allowing entry to the ancient town of Fez: Bab Bou Jeloud, the western gate has bright decorations and hotels and cafes grouped around it; Bab Er Rsif is the central gate, opening onto the square in front of the mosque of the same name; Bab el-Ftouh is the southeast gate giving onto the cemeteries; and Bab Guissa, the north gate, lies on the hillside close to the Merenid tombs vantage point. The principal entrance for tourists is the Bab Bou Jeloud, which was constructed in the modern era in 1913 but appears deceptively older with its tiled facade.

The shrine that houses the remains of the founder of the city of Fez, Moulay Idriss II, is one of the holiest buildings in the city, enclosed in the depths of the old city. Non-Muslims may not enter the imposing building, but it is possible to see inside and glimpse the saint’s tomb, which is the subject of a constant devotional ritual by a group of women who burn candles and incense and make offerings.