Around the Gulf, Doha has earned the unenviable reputation of being the dullest place on earth. You will be hard-pressed to find anyone who'll claim the place is exciting. That said, there's nothing wrong with Doha - you're unlikely to get shot or mugged or die from cholera.

The bay is pleasant and there are enough interesting sites around town to keep you occupied for a day or two. Doha is also the only place in Qatar with hotels (and an airport), so even if you're travelling around the country, you'll be stopping through here.

The first town north of Doha, Umm Salal Mohammed's raison-d'être is its fort, which is open when someone is around to unlock the door (mornings are your best bet). It's a relatively small, whitewashed rectangular building with two towers, one of which rises to a height of four storeys.

Near the fort is a small mosque with an old minaret that has recently been restored to its original state, and some ruined mud-brick fortifications. While there's not a lot going for it, Umm Salal Mohammed is only 25km (15mi) from Doha, so is worth a stop if you're heading north.

Al-Shahaniya is a good place to see camels roaming around the desert and camels racing in a purpose-built stadium. If you have a car - a 4WD is not necessary - it's fun to drive alongside the 18km (11mi) racetrack during the race.

Understandably promoted as the major attraction in Qatar, this 'inland sea' is actually a huge salt-water inlet jutting into the desert and surrounded by kilometres of towering sand dunes. The best time to visit the dunes is in the late afternoon, but to appreciate the area fully it's best to camp overnight.